When we turn on our kitchen or bathroom tap, water flows out immediately. It looks like its clean water, but that is not 100% clean. When water travels through the ground, it picks up particles of minerals like calcium, magnesium, iron and lead from the earth. The process of removing minerals and impurities happens at the municipal water treatment plant before it flows out of our taps.
While hard water does not have any negative effects on human health, it can damage your household appliances and your plumbing. By leaving “scale” in faucets that you often use, it can clog the pipes. It also leaves spots on ceramic objects like dishes or your bathtub. In short, hard water is more abrasive than soft water.
Installing a new water softener is not an easy task, and if you have beginner to intermediate skills with replacing hardware equipment, it is advised that you call an experienced plumber. Also, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Nevertheless, here are some steps you can follow if you wish to install the new water softener yourself.
Things you’ll need:
- New Water Softener
- Measuring tape
- Soldering iron
- Copper tubing
- Potassium chloride salt or sodium chloride
Go step by step:
Choose and clean the area: Pick the area where you wish to install the unit. Position the water softener near the main water supply, where the inlet and outlet pipes can be connected.
Cut main water and power supply and drain out pipes: Turn off the main water supply and the power supply, which also goes towards the water-heater. Then open lower level faucets to drain remaining water from the pipes.
Make connections to the bypass valve: Connect a pipe from the main water supply to the water softener’s inlet port and another pipe from the outlet port into the water-heater, which will then distribute the water to other parts of your house. Solder all the fittings properly.
Clamp the drain hose and connect the overflow tube: This will let the wastewater flow into the drainage. The end of the hose must be at least 2 inches above a drain hole, and it should be securely clamped. Connect the brine tanks to the overflow tube and fill it with 4 gallons of water. The overflow’s discharge must be positioned lower than the overflow fitting.
Flush water softener: Turn on the water supply to flush out the sediments and drive out air from the pipes. Open the valve to the water-heater and restore its power to ensure proper flow of water. Check for any leaks.
Set the valves to backwash position: Once plugged to a nearby receptacle, press and hold the “Regenerate” button.
Bleed off any buildup of air: The idea here is to drain out any air pockets off the unit to stop the sputtering noise.
Plug in the power cord: Turn on the water supply valve completely when a steady stream of water appears in the drain and let the conditioner run through the complete backwash cycle once again. Finally, test the system for any leaks, and if necessary retighten the solder if there are any leaky nuts or fittings.